David,
I have repaired just about all models of the Hy Gain rotors over the years.
First, unless you are into S & M, forget about the terminal strip and order
a quick disconnect connector
http://www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/product_info.php?cPath
Erratic meter indications are normally associated with a worn out 500 ohm
pot in the rotor, so order a new pot.
Since the rotor is older, I would also replaced the bearings and the two
nylon bearing holders. Bearings tend to become pitted, and the nylon
bearing holders become brittle and break easily when re-installing the
bearings.
Once you have the rotor torn down, clean out all the old grease, and use
new grease. Does not take a lot and several rotors I have fixed had way
too much grease in them.
Take a look at the inside top of the bell housing and check for excessive
wear of the slot the "tit" of the wiper on the 500 ohm pot fits into. Also
check the brake housing for any broken teeth, and do the same for all the
gears.
Dick, K8ZTT
On Fri, Mar 22, 2019, 21:23 Wayne Kline <w3ea@hotmail.com> wrote:
> You can get replacement terminal strips but the terminials are steel.
> As menitioned and I do also is cut a plate out of scrap allunimum sheet
> drill a hole and solder a pig tail.
>
> I make mine 16 inches and terminate them on a terminial strip inside a
> plastic WX proof Box .
>
> As for the jumpy meter. If you get full meter read 360 deg . I have
> found the alunimum top housing developes electrolysis and it falls onto
> the meter pot causing it to be jumpy also at the copper grounding strip
> mating surface in the top of the top bell.
>
> My solution to rectifiy this delima is after a cleaning with steel wool I
> mask off the ground point at the top and the mating surface and fog it
> with a coat of clear paint.
>
> As for the 500 ohm pot burnish it with a cardboard match cover and clean
> it with CRC contact cleaner.
>
>
>
> MY .02 YMMV
>
>
>
> Wayne W3EA
>
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> on behalf of Steven
> Katz <stevek@jmr.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 2:22:29 PM
> To: David Huff; TowerTalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] old rotor contacts repair question
>
> Most would just eliminate the terminal strip and install a cover plate
> with a hole and grommet to bring out a cable with a detachable connector,
> like the "rotator reconditioning" guys do. But whatever works.
>
> If the meter needle is jumpy, I'd think that's because the rotator's
> internal 500 Ohm positioning indicator potentiometer is worn out and needs
> replacement. Those are available.
>
> I've rebuilt or reconditioned several of these rotators over the decades.
> The HAM-II is really old.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> On Behalf Of David Huff
> Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 11:03 AM
> To: TowerTalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] old rotor contacts repair question
>
> I have just acquired an old CDE / Ham II rotor and now I am reconditioning
> it. I have 2 questions.
>
>
> 1. The previous owner used steel screws or washers on the rotor
> electrical screw terminals, which means I need to remove the rust. My plan
> is to replace with brass or stainless screws and washers. It rotates, and
> the meter needle moves, but is jumpy, probably because of the rusty
> terminals. What do you recommend for a good cleaner to get the electrical
> pads clean again.
> 2. Is there something I can cover the screw terminals with to prevent
> the water from getting in and creating problems in the future?
>
> Thanks,
> David
> W0IM
>
>
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