HVLP spraying is fairly efficient, but there is a learning curve and the
initial portion of the curve can be high waste. Depending on the
equipment, cleanup can be a royal PITA. Inexpensive equipment may have
plastic parts that are vulnerable to paint thinners as benign as Mineral
Spirits) even though most paint requires little thinner when used in
HVLP guns.
Personally I don't like the results with rollers on tubes and much
prefer the HVLP, EXCEPT being inherently lazy, I really dislike the cleanup.
73, Roger (K8RI)
On 7/30/2017 Sunday 3:23 PM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
Rudy,
Petit's Shipendec and Z*Spar products are enamels, mostly in a
traditional fashion (petroleum distillate vehicle, pigments and
traditional oils). Their Easypoxy is a single part polyurethane. They
now have a relatively new product, which is a two part polyurethane
(LPU) called EZpoxy2. This is as you might expect an LPU, with bits of
the bisphenyl A molecule included, so they can call it an epoxy. It's
not a true epoxy, but a modified polyurethane, but is a good product.
(LPU is linear polyurethane.)
Woosley is another good name in marine paint. You can Google on
marine paint and find plenty of info. You don't need to get into the
hassle of the more traditional catalyzed epoxies. Whatever paint you
choose go with the maker's recommendations for prep and primer( if
needed.)
Spraying can be wasteful. A good properly sized roller with correct
knap and a brush for those difficult to roll spots is low tech, high
reliability and thrifty man, thrifty. Depending on your spray
equipment, expertise/skill and work piece configuration it is easy to
waste 1/2 the paint spraying.
Patrick NJ5G
On 7/30/2017 9:59 AM, Rudy Bakalov via TowerTalk wrote:
The plan is to buy fiberglass tubes from MGS4U, a site selling to
hams, and apply my own primer and paint. They claim their fiberglass
already has the UV additives.
The idea is to have a X arms support for wire antennas on top of my
95' tower. The QTH is VE3 with -20F cold winters and 90F sunny summers.
Can you recommend specific marine grade primer and paint?
Rudy N2WQ
Sent using a tiny keyboard. Please excuse brevity, typos, or
inappropriate autocorrect.
On Jul 30, 2017, at 9:05 AM, Patrick Greenlee
<patrick_g@windstream.net> wrote:
Not all fiberglass (AKA GRP Glass Reinforced Plastic) is created
equal. Some is made with Acrylic resins, some with various epoxy
resins and so forth. Some have UV stabilizer(s) in the mix and some
don't. Comparing anecdotal "evidence" of environmental robustness is
essentially futile unless the nitty gritty of the chemistry is also
known. It is like saying, I have a bag of stuff and it is pretty
heavy and when exposed to the weather in Minot, ND during a really
cold winter it didn't catch fire. Now compare that to your bag of
stuff in a meaningful way.
Painting fiberglass? Is it contaminated with mold release? If yes,
then what kind, silicone, water soluble, or what. Many variables to
consider when painting fiberglass. Clean is good. Lightly abraded to
foster tooth is good. Well proven coatings successfully employed on
fiberglass boats with exposure to sunlight and foot traffic are good
candidates for fiberglass coatings exposed to the weather in many
ham applications.
Patrick NJ5G
On 7/30/2017 12:41 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
I was thinking about building an LPD antenna and purchased some
Strongwell 2" square fiberglass tubing about 7 years ago. I never
finished the project and the tubing has been kicking around the
yard in the AZ sun since then. I see no signs of degradation and
it had no treatment whatsoever.
Contrast that to the fiberglass military mast sections that turn to
hazardous waste in a year or so.
Wes N7WS
On 7/28/2017 6:27 PM, Rudy Bakalov via TowerTalk wrote:
Hi folks,
Does anyone have first hand experience to share? What can I expect
from primed and painted UV resistant fiberglass?
Thanks!
Rudy N2WQ
Sent using a tiny keyboard. Please excuse brevity, typos, or
inappropriate autocorrect.
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Roger (K8RI)
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