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Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...

To: towertalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...
From: Steve Maki <lists@oakcom.org>
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2016 08:12:48 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
I've used that method myself on towers that had suffered vehicular damage near the base, works well.

In fact another option for Doug, if he's going to be forming up a new block of concrete above grade, would be to take this opportunity to convert to some version of a pier pin install.

-Steve K8LX

On 2/12/2016 12:11 AM, Stan Stockton wrote:

Doug,

If that tower is actually so out of plumb that you have to fix it,
this is what I would do:

1.  Bend the legs just enough, within an inch of the bottom, that you
can push the tower with significant force by one person BY HAND from
ground level so it is straight.  Paint the bottom 16 inches of the
tower and also coat it with some roofing tar, at least where you
hammered.

2.  Drill four, six inch deep holes in the existing concrete in a
square outside the area taken up by the tower.  Install and epoxy, if
you have the proper epoxy, rebar in those holes extending up about 15
inches.

3. Make a form around your existing base about 12 inches larger both
length and width than your existing pad X 16 inches tall.  If the
existing pad is 24" X 24", make the form 36" X 36".  Install rebar in
the new form above the existing concrete pad and down into the new
pour area.

4.  Pour the new concrete using three plumb bobs (one on each leg)
and with tower perfectly plumb (check it with a good level on all
three legs in the direction where the guy wires will go to the
anchors) and let it cure for however long you want - 14 days should
be good.

In my opinion there is a lot more potential for creating worse
problems than what you currently have in trying to move a 2000 pound
block of concrete buried 3 feet in the hard ground with 20 feet of
R25G sticking out of it.  You certainly don't want to put extreme
force on one leg of the tower at 15 or 20 feet with a guy wire in an
effort to move the concrete.

Remember that the only purpose of a tower base on a guyed tower is to
keep it from sinking in the ground.  Originally you were going to
have it sit on top of a plate on your roof.  Oh, yes, this is
overboard, but probably less work than trying to move the concrete.

Use good, temporary guy wires with proper tension and put up the last
section or two and antenna in a safe manner.

73... Stan, K5GO

On Feb 11, 2016, at 5:51 PM, Douglas Ruz (CO8DM)
<co8dm@frcuba.co.cu> wrote:

Hi,

I have been thinking and I am really want my tower straight and
plumb.

I am considering digging out some side of the base to adjust the
tower level.

Any tips or thoughts ???

Can I just digging 2 sides or all 4 sides of tower bease???

About backfilling...what is the best add concrete again for
backfilling???

what is the best method to move the base to adjust the level
??...it is about 2000 pounds base.

Thanks in advance,

73....Douglas, CO8DM

"No creo que haya alguna emoción más intensa para un inventor que
ver alguna de sus creaciones funcionando. Esa emoción hace que uno
se olvide de comer, de dormir, de todo." - Nikola Tesla -----
Original Message ----- From: "Steve Maki" <lists@oakcom.org> To:
<towertalk@contesting.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:26
PM Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...


If your tower is the equivalent of R25, and only 30', there's not
much you can do to it to really overstress it, unless you try
real hard.

But if you really want it straight AND plumb, consider digging
out the appropriate side of the foundation and letting the the
concrete adjust itself, and then backfilling it back in.

At that point it will become what you want it to be, merely an
anti-sink device.

-Steve K8LX

On 2/10/2016 8:08 PM, Douglas Ruz (CO8DM) wrote: Thanks for all
replys.

OK, first, I will build a Gin Pole...I think it is not a
problem.

Second, seems that my verticality errors are "into" the
tolerance range, so, I think I can do some corrections before
tighten the bolts...I put some pressure in one of the temporary
guys and make the 2nd section plumb. In general the tower (only
2 sections now) is very stiff with "My temporary guy ropes"...I
climb to the top of the 20ft to attach the line with weight
(plumb bob) in the center of the tower and I dont feel any
movement.

My questions is:

Can I try to make the tower plumb without adding to much stress
to tower legs???


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