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Re: [TowerTalk] New Tower Installation

To: Dave <dave.n7drk@yahoo.com>, towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] New Tower Installation
From: ersmar@comcast.net
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 07:03:47 +0000
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Dave:

     I stick-built my Trylon T-500-64 five years ago.  It took me about two 
hours per section to erect it by myself.  My comments are embedded below.  Good 
luck with the project.

73 de
Gene Smar  AD3F


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Dave <dave.n7drk@yahoo.com>
> A Northeast Washington Howdy to all.
> 
> I am new to this list and towers. At long last I have
> the room to put up a Titan 72 foot self-supporting
> tower. Not sure at this point what antenna I will use
> but a SteppIR is high on the list.
> 
> I am a bit overwhelmed at the volume of information
> here so please bear with me while I ask and learn.
> 
> I plan on doing most of the installation: digging the
> hole per mfg specs, fabrication of the rebar cage,
> erection of the first section, and "stick" building
> the rest. I know there are some on this list who have
> done this and I am a good listener and could use all
> the help/pointers I can get. Some initial questions I
> have:
> 
> 1 - Do I somehow bond the rebar cage together and
> bring a wire out of the concrete block?

No.  Simply connect the crosspoints of the rebar cage together with steel wire 
that you can purchase wherever you buy the rebar.  Don't let any wire exit the 
concrete block;  otherwise, when thw wire corrodes, water could infilitrate the 
concrete and begin to crack it.

Make sure you don't let the rebar rest on the dirt in the bottom of the hole.  
Use a stack of two bricks under two rebar rods along each side of the rebar 
cage to elevate the cage inside the hole.  When you pour the concrete, the 
rebar ends will be supported by these masonry pieces, not setting on bare 
earth.  Otherwise you could allow the rebar to rust and expand inside the 
concrete, cracking it.


> 
> 2 - Do I likewise bond the three embedded tower legs
> together?

The tower legs will be connected together through the remainder of the tower 
structure.  In fact, you can't really install the legs without first 
constructing the bottom section of the tower on the legs.  That's how you get 
the proper position for the legs in the concrete - by using the first section 
as a template of sorts.  (See my final comment for more on this subject.)

> 
> 3 - Should I install a ground rod into the soil at the
> bottom of the base before pouring the concrete?

No need.  Your plans should include the installation of a minimum of two ground 
rods located within two feet of the tower (per NEC).  Hammering another rod 
into the dirt at the bottom of the excavation and running a wire from inside 
the concrete out to the rod will enable water to infiltrate the concrete (see 
#1 above.)  

My ground system consists of four rods in the dirt around the concrete, 
connected to the three legs with #2 solid tinned copper wire.  The three leg 
wires continue from those first ground rods away from the tower to an 
additional eight rods and about 125 feet of #2 wire conductor.  

Trylon towers have pre-drilled holes in the bottom sections that I used to 
connect the ground wires to the tower with Harger 222T clamps ( 
http://www.harger.com/lightningprotection.htm , then click on 2.6.1 Bonding 
Lugs .)  I also bought the #2 solid wire from Harger.

Use these pre-drilled holes for the ground wire, not a you-drilled hole at the 
bottom of each leg.  The pre-drilled holes are high enough on each leg that the 
ground wire will make a nice sweeping arc as it leaves the tower and heads into 
the dirt.  You will avoid right-angle connections from the leg to the wire by 
attaching it above the concrete base in this way.  And run thses ground wires 
through a piece of garden hose to protect them from the lawn mower.  (Plug up 
the top end of the hose with electrician's putty.)


> 
> 4 - Any other suggestions do's/don'ts at this point?

The trick to this type of assembly is to get the bottom section straight (no 
twists) and plumb (truly vertical.)  I did this by building the bottom section 
on a plywood platform that I made sure was level.  You can also use your garage 
floor if it's level.  I stood the first section up on this level platform after 
all the bolts were initially tightened.  Then I built a T out of wooden scraps 
and set it on top of the three legs.  (Thanks, K7LXC.)  I suspended a plumb 
line and weight from the center of this T and sighted through the tower along 
this string and each tower leg.  I loosened the bolts and tweaked the steel 
angles as required to ensure that each leg was in line with the string.  Once 
the bolts are tightened at this point, the bottom section will be a solid 
foundation for the remainder of the tower sections.  Now you can attach the 
legs to this bottom section and drag it over to the hole.

> 
> Cheers, Dave - N7DRK
> 
> 
> 
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